Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend [Frosty Hesson] on site. com. *FREE* Author interviews, book reviews, editors' picks, and more. terney.info: Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend (Audible Audio Edition): Frosty Hesson, Ian Spiegelman, Gary Dikeos, Audible Studios: Books. Making Mavericks book. Read 19 reviews from the world's largest community for readers. West Coast surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares his remarkable life.

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Making Mavericks Book

Making Mavericks book. Read 4 reviews from the world's largest community for readers. West Coast surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares his remarkable life. download Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend by Frosty Hesson (ISBN: ) from site's Book Store. Everyday low prices and free. Making Mavericks by Frosty Hesson - When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in , the skinny kid with a sparkle in his .

It was late December , and everyone who surfed Mavericks had been studying weather patterns for days. By then, Mavericks—a break twenty-five miles south of San Francisco and a half-mile off the coast—was becoming recognized as a legitimate, world-class wave. But it was still largely unknown outside the big wave surfing community. A notable series of storm systems that produced large waves for an unusually long, consistent period of time seemed to be coming our way. I made sure to give Jay my last-minute advice before the system hit. I spoke with him the night before and the morning of, telling him the same thing both times: Hit the beach early to gather all the information that keeps you from being tempted to go out in conditions that are very difficult to deal with. I was driving back from work that afternoon when a friend flagged me down on a back road and told me that Jay had nearly been killed at Mavericks. What about Jay? It was horrific. As soon as I saw the shots, I knew Jay had ignored my advice. In the sequence of photos, you can see from the way the wave ledged up that the offshore winds had been much too strong to surf in. Jay did everything almost right—except the main thing, which was not to surf until the wind died down. What happened? I had told him what would happen if he went out before those offshores settled down, which was that the wind gets underneath the board and causes a kiting effect, and that the stronger that wind is the harder it is to keep the nose down and penetrate through the wave.

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Hesson ably captures the enchantment and inherent dangers of surfing in this distinctive memoir. Pub Date: Page count: Zola Books.

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