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MUSHROOM CULTIVATOR by Paul Stamets and Jeff Chilton is easily the best . The three major steps in the growing of mushrooms parallel three phases in. by. Paul Stamets. PDF compression, OCR, web-optimization with CVISION's PdfCompressor for informing you about growing mushrooms, but for transforming you into a myco-warrior, an ac- tive participant manual for all those seeking a happier and healthier way of life. rooms are more forgiving and easier to grow. growing mushrooms. Gratitude is owed to Divine N. Njie, Agro-industries . has discovered a method for processing quality dry mushroom without using a .. ( Pleurotus species) which grow on many substrates and are easy for . (http:// terney.info pdf).
How to prepare the plates Here are the detailed steps for making cardboard plates. Note that you can also use small jars in place of Petri dishes. Trace a Petri plate onto the cardboard with a pencil and cut out several disks to fit into your plates. Multiply this weight by a factor of 1. Remember, 1 ounce of water equals Example: Suppose my disks weighed 0. Multiplying 0. There are That means I'll add 6.
Let the solution soak completely into the disks. They are now ready to use. You can store and incubate these plates inside plastic food storage bags as I suggest in Volume I for agar plates. But you will probably find that your cardboard disks dry out too quickly. You can keep them moist longer by storing them in a closed container that has some peroxide solution in the bottom. For instance, find a plastic yogurt container or a jar with a mouth wide enough to let Petri dishes pass.
Then create a platform to hold your Petri dishes off the bottom of the container, perhaps by putting a smaller jar inside the larger container. Put the Petris on top of the platform. Then add a small quantity of peroxide solution to the container at the same concentration you use for your plates roughly 0. Finally, cover the container with a layer of plastic wrap and fix it in place with a rubber band around the mouth of the container this kind of closure will allow adequate oxygen diffusion.
Be careful to set it up so that you cannot knock your Petri dishes off the platform into the water. Making transfers Now you are probably wondering how you will remove wedges of cardboard when you want to make a transfer from one of these plates. Just draw the scalpel tip firmly sideways across the cardboard a few times in one place. The scrapings can then be transferred to another plate or to a jar of spawn with the scalpel.
Corrugated cardboard turns out to be too tough for easy removal of material from the surface by scraping in this fashion. Cleaning the mycelium As I explained in Volume I and in the section on slants above, invisible contaminants from the air can build up on the surface of mycelium that has been grown on peroxide plates, since the peroxide protects the medium but not the mycelium.
The invisible contaminants have to be cleaned off periodically, or else they will proliferate in spawn or fruiting cultures.
Mycelium grown on cardboard is no exception. With agar cultures, we cleaned the mycelium with the rather awkward measure of prying the agar disk out of the bottom of the Petri plate into the lid, then inoculating the bottom of the agar, then returning the agar disk to its original place. This forced the mycelium to grow up through the medium, leaving contaminants behind.
Although this works, it also increases the failure rate because it is such a tricky maneuver. With cardboard, it is easy to inoculate the bottom of the disk: you can just flip the plate upside down, so that the disk falls into the lid and the bottom of the disk is exposed. Then transfer a sample of mycelium to the exposed surface with a flame-sterilized scalpel, close up the plate, and flip it back over. But as it turns out, the mycelium takes a surprisingly long time to grow through the disk, preferring instead to spread laterally.
So rather than waiting for the mycelium to grow to the top, we can simply allow it to spread on the bottom of the disk. As long as it is left undisturbed, the mycelium then will grow entirely under the cover of cardboard, so that it has very little exposure to airborne contaminants.
This in itself should keep the mycelium clean, especially if the cardboard disk sits nearly flat on the bottom of the plate. If you routinely inoculate your plates this way, and you take material toward the edge of the mycelial halo for your transfers, I expect you should have little problem with accumulation of invisible contaminants.
If you have trouble getting your disks to sit flat on the bottom of your Petri plates, you may have better luck by creating a sandwich of cardboard with two sterile peroxide-moistened disks, inoculating the inside of the sandwich, between the disks. The mycelium then will grow entirely within the sandwich, keeping it free of airborne contamination.
The dry quality of the cardboard surface on both sides of the mycelium, in addition, should discourage the spread of bacteria and yeast, so that the mycelium can clean itself as it spreads laterally within the sandwich.
When you want to get at the protected mycelium inside the sandwich, you pry apart the pieces of cardboard. Because you cannot see how far the mycelium has grown without opening it, you will have to be careful about dating your cultures, so you can be sure you have allowed enough time for the mycelium to grow out before you open the sandwich. Storage cultures without agar Freshly inoculated cardboard "sandwiches" can easily be picked up with a pair of tweezers sterilized in a flame and transferred to small ziplock plastic bags for storage.
After transfer, allow the mycelium to grow out for a week or two. As an alternative, narrow strips of sterilized, moistened cardboard could be inoculated with small chunks of agar culture, then with the help of a flame-sterilized tweezers slipped into sterile screw cap tubes for storage. When it was time to retrieve the culture from storage and grow it out again , a given strip could then be carefully withdrawn and transferred to a sterile Petri dish or a jar, where the mycelium could be more easily scraped from the surface of the cardboard.
Yet another choice would be to load some moistened sawdust or paper fiber pellets broken into small bits after moistening into screw cap tubes, pressure sterilize for 10 minutes, cool, and inoculate with a bit of agar culture. After the mycelium has grown out, the culture can be put in storage. Then, it should be possible to remove a bit of the culture by means of an inoculating loop or scalpel for transfer to new medium when needed.
I have not yet had enough time to determine how well these cultures hold up in long-term storage, but I suspect they will do better than agar cultures, since paper fiber and cardboard more closely resemble natural substrate for mushroom mycelium. If you don't add any nutrient solution, the medium will be quite lean, as is usually recommended for storage cultures; this both encourages dormancy and prevents an accumulation of toxic waste products that the mycelium would produce in a richer medium in long term storage.
At the same time, species such as oyster mushrooms that do not do well in wet storage that is, distilled water or slants may find the cardboard medium more to their liking, since it has a drier character. In addition, paper fiber and cardboard cultures of cold-tolerant strains like those of oyster mushrooms can easily be frozen.
Sending cultures in the mail Just as paper and cardboard cultures can easily be stored in plastic ziplock baggies, so too can they be sent out in the mail this way. Make a sandwich of mycelium between two thin disks of gray cereal-box cardboard that have been sterilized and moistened with peroxide solution.
The colored side of the cardboard faces out, acting to help hold moisture in and keep potential contaminants sealed out. Then, with a tweezers, pop this sandwich into the smallest ziplock bag you can find, zip it closed, and let it grow out for a few days. Put something heavy on top of the bag like a book, to hold the sandwich tightly closed as the mycelium stitches it together.
Instead of a ziplock bag, you can also cut off a corner section of a non-ziplock plastic food storage bag, fold it over neatly, and tape it closed. Finally, send it off. The recipient at the other end will just need to transfer the mycelium to a fresh plate. To do so, he or she will need to remove the disks to a sterile Petri plate or jar, then pry the sandwich open with a tweezers to get at the mycelium, which has been kept clean and protected inside.
This method of mailing cultures in ordinary envelopes is probably limited to species whose mycelium can tolerate the low temperatures reached in the cargo hold of a jet plane. Warm-growing species such as the almond mushroom Agaricus subrufescens may need to be packed in insulated containers to keep them from freezing.
Spawn Preparation Spawn in plastic bags -- "Eight Minute Spawn" In Growing Mushrooms the Easy Way, I presented a procedure for preparing pellet-fuel based spawn quickly and easily using glass jars as containers. This is still my own preferred method for making spawn, but I have worked out variations on this method so that it can be adapted to additional situations.
You can easily use these bags as spawn containers--in fact, they offer certain advantages over jars. The pellets were there to make it possible to break up the spawn by agitating the jars. With plastic bags, you can break up the spawn by manipulating the bags.
For another thing, air exchange into the plastic bags seems to be greater than that into jars, because oxygen can enter through the plastic but not through glass.
This speeds up growth of spawn somewhat in the plastic bags. And, the spawn bags heat and cool more quickly than jars, so the steaming process can be completed even more quickly than before. The bags also save the trouble of preparing cardboard disks to fit in the jar lids, and of cleaning the jars. And finally, the bags allow you to smell the spawn without opening it, because the fragrance escapes through the plastic.
This allows you a way to check for purity of the spawn other than just by looking at it.
Bacterial and mold contamination will introduce a sour or moldy smell, and each mushroom species has a characteristic fragrance. On the other side of the equation, the bags create non-biodegradable waste although they can be washed and re-used. And, they are not especially convenient when you want to remove just a small portion of the spawn at a time with jars, you can remove the lid, shake out some spawn into a waiting container, then replace the lid.
For the latter reason, I still make my spawn masters which I use for inoculating additional spawn in jars. Add the liquid ingredients and allow the water to get absorbed. Keep mixing until the pellets have broken down into sawdust.
Twist the bags loosely closed. Place all of the bags at once into the boiling water, lowering them in by holding the necks of the bags together. Using the spawn To use your bag spawn, break up the mycelium the day before you will inoculate, manipulating the bag to turn the clump of mycelium into lumps, and the lumps into smaller particles.
Take care not to puncture the bag with your fingernails, or with the twist tie. The next day, when you are ready to pour out the spawn from these bags, be aware that the mouths of the bags are not sterile above the twist ties, so you shouldn't use them like pour spouts.
Instead, 1 pull open the mouth of the bag by grasping from the outside surfaces 2 fold the mouth of the bag back on itself, and 3 push the spawn out while turning the bag inside out. Preparation of Bulk Substrate Bulk Substrate I: Preparing straw with peroxide -- at room temperature Next we come to a method for using peroxide to prepare straw for use as mushroom substrate. This method should be attractive to both the home grower and the commercial cultivator because the procedure can be carried out entirely at room temperature, with no heating and cooling step, and no caustic solution required.
This makes substrate preparation very convenient and inexpensive, with no need for set-ups to heat large amounts of water or substrate, no problems with over-pasteurization, and no concerns about the speed of cooling. And in contrast to the hydrated lime soak method presented in Volume I, there is no problematic waste produced by the substrate preparation process, other than the natural "tea" that is normally produced by soaking straw in water.
Finally, it should be possible to prepare other similar "drainable" substrates such as bagasse, dried grasses, dried corn leaves, etc. Materials of this kind are readily available in most parts of the world. I have tested the protocol both with the elm oyster H.
More of a question mark is shiitake, only because it is typically grown on straw with a nitrogen supplement, and I haven't used a supplement to grow the elm oyster and the almond mushroom. What about the enzymes? To measure the peroxide concentration in the bottles you get from the store, you will also need a small test tube with a lip, and a balloon. You will NOT need a glove box, HEPA filters, ultraviolet lights, a sterile laboratory, laminar flow hoods, air locks, foot washes, etc.
For some suggestions on obtaining the supplies used in the peroxide manual if you live in the US or the UK, visit my Sources page Testing peroxide concentration This shows my simple test for peroxide concentrationnecessary because stock solutions can lose their punch. The test tube received a few milliliters of hydrogen peroxide solution, which has now decomposed to release oxygen, filling the balloon.
Although you can't see it in this picture, my fingers are holding in place a fat rubber band wrapped around the mouth of the balloon to keep a tight seal on the tube. Once all the peroxide has broken down, the balloon is carefully removed and the oxygen is measured by releasing it into an inverted graduated cylinder filled with water Inoculating Pellet Fuel Mushroom Substrate Here I am, headless, inoculating a 5 gallon bucket of peroxide-treated oak pellet fuel substrate with a jar of elm oyster "Ten minute spawn.
Pellet fuel is an ideal substrate for the peroxide method, because it is completely peroxide-compatible, free of enzymes that break down hydrogen peroxide. But pellet fuel is far from being the only substrate that works. You can use straw and similar drainable materials details in Volume II of the manual , or certain peroxide-compatible porous woody materials such as sawdust-based cat litter in the UK, Fussy Puss litter , additive-free composite logs in the UK, Clean Heat logs , the sawdust derived from milling of kiln-dried lumber, paper fiber pellets in the US, Crown Animal Bedding or Good Mews Cat litter , paper pulp, and clean cardboard.
Any other porous substrate commonly used for mushroom growth, such as raw sawdust, will work with peroxide if you first pressure-sterilize the substrate, or bake it for several hours at degrees F degrees C , or steam it 24 hours, to destroy the peroxidedecomposing enzymes present in it.
Some mushrooms, such as white buttons and their relatives, grow best on compost, which can generally be prepared without peroxide, although I am investigating ways to improve compost making with the help of peroxide.
Bagging Pellet Fuel Mushroom Substrate Here I'm pouring inoculated, peroxide-treated pellet fuel substrate from a 5 gallon bucket into a fresh plastic "tall kitchen bag" supported by a cardboard box. In some cases, it may be more convenient to add spawn to the bags after filling, rather than before.
And there are various alternatives to using bags, such as plastic buckets with loose fitting lids. Of course, some mushrooms may be grown in beds rather than in bags. This is taken in my kitchen. No HEPA filters or glove box in sight. Jars of "Ten Minute Spawn" in the background. Mushroom substrate, bagged and sealed This is what my wood-decomposing mushroom cultures look like after the trash bag is filled with inoculated, peroxide-treated substrate and sealed with a twist tie.
I leave the bag in the cardboard box until the mycelium knits the substrate together. There is no filter on the bag for gas exchange, as the thin plastic allows enough oxygen to diffuse through to the culture. Photo courtesy of Joe Durham. Lions Mane and Almond mushrooms grown with peroxide.
Lions Mane photo courtesy of Joe Durham. This is what it is all about! What are the additional advantages of the peroxide method? What are the limitations of peroxide use in mushroom growing?
What are the different ways a mushroom grower can use peroxide? Can I use peroxide for growing mushrooms on straw or compost? What substrates can I use for mushroom growing with peroxide? What mushrooms can I grow in the presence of peroxide? How effective is peroxide treatment in mushroom cultivation?
How safe is peroxide use in mushroom culture? Can peroxide be used for certified "organic" growing of mushrooms? What equipment do I need to grow mushrooms using the peroxide method?
Can the peroxide method be used to grow mushrooms commercially? What are the comparative costs of growing mushrooms with peroxide? How do I order the peroxide manual?
With peroxide, you can make sawdust spawn medium from wood pellet fuel with just a ten minute steaming, rather than pressure sterilization. This is one of the fastest methods of making mushroom spawn yet devised. The spawn can then be grown on a bookshelf in your home, rather than in a sterile laboratory.
And, the amount of spawn you can make isn't limited by the size of your pressure cooker, since you can use any of a variety of large pots with fitted lids instead. With peroxide, you can prepare sawdust cultures without pressure sterilizing either the bulk substrate or the supplements. You can even do it without heating the substrate.
To do this, you will need to use peroxide-compatible starting materials such as wood pellet fuel and selected nitrogen supplements. Volume I of the peroxide manual describes a simple pellet fuel procedure with a boiling-water pasteurization, and it gives the details on how to select appropriate materials and supplements. Volume II of the manual presents an "add-and-stir" protocol for preparing peroxide-compatible porous substrates such as pellet fuel, paper fiber pellets, and kiln-dried sawdust, using peroxide at room temperature.
Peroxide can do away with costly filter-patch culture bags for bulk substrate. Grow cultures in ordinary trashbags placed inside boxes right out of the package, or in reusable plastic buckets with lids.
Added peroxide keeps cultures from going anaerobic breakdown of the added peroxide by the mushroom mycelium releases oxygen. This makes it possible to pack sawdust-based substrate more tightly, creating a denser substrate favored by many species. Peroxide kills mushroom spores, so you can grow agar cultures in the same building you use to fruit your mushrooms, even if the mushrooms produce a high spore load.
Peroxide kills contaminants without encouraging new resistant strains. Antibiotics, sometimes added to agar medium, kill only bacteria, and can select for antibiotic resistant mutants.
Enzymes in raw sawdust will destroy peroxide in short order. Therefore, something has to be done to eliminate these enzymes before peroxide can be usefully added to sawdust.
With current technology, this means pressure sterilizing.
However, wood pellet fuel, paper fiber pellets e. Crown Animal Bedding or Good Mews cat litter, etc. Wood pellet fuel is sawdust that has been made into hard dry pellets that can be burned in special pellet stoves. The heat and pressure used to create such pellets destroys the peroxide-decomposing enzymes.
Clean newsprint, cardboard, and paper pulp can also accept peroxide as can the woody material in composite logs, and probably also the sawdust derived from milling of kiln-dried lumber. Finally, a number of "drainable" materials can be prepared readily with peroxide despite the enzymes.
These materials include straw and similar plant remains, seed and nut hulls, and wood chips see Volume II of the manual for details. Because of their enzyme content, most soft-textured raw nitrogen supplements such as bran, cornmeal, cottonseed meal, etc. However, certain processed supplements, which lack the peroxide-decomposing enzymes found in traditional supplements, do not have to be baked or pressure sterilized see Volume I of the manual for details.
Instead, they can be mixed with the substrate and treated with it. Also, my recent research has shown that steel cut oats can be used without sterilization despite their enzyme content, to enrich substrate for oyster mushrooms following the "Add-and-stir" procedure in Volume II of the peroxide manual.
In some circumstances, using the peroxide method prevents use of commercial spawn. For mushroom mycelium to grow in the presence of peroxide, it must be adapted to peroxide at a low concentration, usually by incubation of a sample of mycelium on peroxide-treated nutrient agar for a period of roughly two weeks.
Without this adaptation process, peroxide will strongly inhibit or even kill mycelium at the concentrations used to prepared bulk substrate. But when properly adapted, the mycelium grows freely in peroxide-treated bulk substrate. Spawn sold commercially has generally not been adapted to peroxide, so it will normally fail to thrive when inoculated into peroxide-treated substrate.
There are, however, certain exceptions to this rule. For instance, those materials which contain active peroxidedecomposing enzymes, such as straw and similar drainable "raw" substrates, can be pasteurized with a peroxide soak and then inoculated with commercial spawn. In these substrates, the peroxide will disappear by decomposition sometime after the grower drains off the soaking solution, allowing growth of the non-adapted mycelium in the peroxide-treated substrate..
If you want to germinate mushroom spores, it is best to start them first on nonperoxide medium and then transfer the mycelium to peroxide agar. Procedures for doing this are now included in Volume II of the peroxide manual.
There are two drawbacks of peroxide for liquid culture. One is that blenderized mycelium has to be used to inoculate liquid cultures. Blenderizing releases peroxidedecomposing enzymes previously encapsulated in the mycelial cells, causing peroxide to decompose in the medium. The other drawback is that, assuming one could overcome the first problem, the peroxide concentration will steadily fall as mushroom tissue circulates through the medium during the course of ordinary growth, decomposing peroxide as it goes.
The procedures described in Volume I of the peroxide manual are scaled to hobby use, and some may prove awkward to use on larger scales, or they may not work at all at those scales.
Nevertheless, for growers interested in the commercial applications of the peroxide method, Volume II of the manual contains substratepreparation procedures designed for any scale of use.
What are the different ways a mushroom grower can use hydrogen peroxide? No need for glove boxes or sterile facilities to keep out contaminants.
Use the resulting cultures to inoculate spawn and to maintain the mycelium. No need for a laminar flow hood or a spawn laboratory. Sawdust spawn made from pellet fuel cooks in ten minutes. Use the resulting spawn to inoculate sawdust, compost, straw, logs, etc.
Prepare straw and similar substrates by a simple soak-and-drain procedure procedure described in Volume II of the manual. Now translated into Spanish - Romanian And announcing: An entirely new approach to mushroom growing.
Non-Sterile Mushroom Cultivation Mushroom growing - a great pastime, but Mushroom growing has the potential to be a fun and fascinating pastime. Our forests have provided many species of fungi that are both beautiful and delicious, and learning to cultivate them can revive our connection to nature and the earth.
But if we have to download a lot of equipment to sterilize substrate and clean the air of contaminants, growing mushrooms can lose its romance. And it can get absurdly complicated when cultures keep spoiling, despite our most elaborate precautions.
So why use hydrogen peroxide in mushroom growing? Hydrogen peroxide simplifies the whole process of growing fungi. There's no need to build a sterile laboratory, download a special giant pressure cooker, or even construct a glove box.
A low concentration of peroxide keeps out the contaminants, while allowing healthy growth of mushroom tissue. And as the mushroom tissue grows, it converts the peroxide to water and oxygen, leaving a clean, vigorous mushroom culture.
Growing Mushrooms the Easy Way I performed my first experiments to test the peroxide idea in , and it worked. Although the invention was patentable, I decided instead to offer the information to the public in the form of an instruction manual.
It is the product of nearly seven years' experimentation to perfect the procedures and find new applications for the peroxide method. The manual in all editions is now in the hands of mushroom growers in 80 countries around the world. In stepwise directions, the peroxide manual explains how to:. Grow mushroom cultures in an ordinary room. Handle cultures in the open air in a kitchen or non-sterile workshop.
Protect cultures from bacteria, yeast, mold, and mushroom spores. Prepare mushroom cultures without an autoclave. Prepare bulk fruiting substrate at room temperature, without heating and cooling. Do away with costly filter-patch culture bags; use ordinary trashbags instead. Prepare sawdust-based mushroom spawn medium with just a ten minute steaming. Grow mushroom spawn and agar cultures on a bookshelf or in a closet.
Please e-mail me. This is taken in my kitchen. Pouring Agar Plates Here I'm pouring melted nutrient agar containing peroxide into a set of reusable plastic petri dishes.
Virtually any commonly cultivated mushroom species can be grown on peroxide-treated nutrient agar Cutting agar to transfer mycelium Here I am using a metal X-acto knife. After the agar solidifies and the plates are dried for a few days.
You can see the halo of white mushroom tissue on the plate. The organism is Hericium erinaceus Lions Mane. Some species are better grown on sterilized grain spawn. Inoculating mushroom spawn Here I'm inoculating a jar "Ten-minute spawn" medium in the open air with a chunk of mycelium from an agar culture of Hericium erinaceus. The medium contains materials chosen to be compatible with peroxide. The Ten Minute Spawn is a sawdust based medium. As always. The Ten-minute spawn is so-named because it takes only 10 minutes to steam it.
Spawn is essentially a mushroom "starter" culture used to inoculate the final mushroom-producing cultures. A stack of peroxide-treated agar Petri dish cultures sits to the left. HEPA filters. You will NOT need a glove box.
If you are just a beginner at mushroom growing. Some mushroom growing equipment for the peroxide method Here's some of my basic equipment for the peroxide method: There are even forms of grain that can be prepared with a brief steaming much like the Ten Minute Spawn. To measure the peroxide concentration in the bottles you get from the store.
For some suggestions on obtaining the supplies used in the peroxide manual if you live in the US or the UK. Later you may want a fan and an automatic misting system. Once all the peroxide has broken down. But pellet fuel is far from being the only substrate that works. Some mushrooms.
The test tube received a few milliliters of hydrogen peroxide solution. You can use straw and similar drainable materials details in Volume II of the manual. Pellet fuel is an ideal substrate for the peroxide method. Any other porous substrate commonly used for mushroom growth. This shows my simple test for peroxide concentrationnecessary because stock solutions can lose their punch. Although you can't see it in this picture. There is no filter on the bag for gas exchange.
Jars of "Ten Minute Spawn" in the background. I put a small slit in the side of the bag. When the culture is ready to form mushrooms. Of course. No HEPA filters or glove box in sight. And there are various alternatives to using bags. I leave the bag in the cardboard box until the mycelium knits the substrate together. Mushroom substrate. In some cases. Photo courtesy of Joe Durham. Lions Mane photo courtesy of Joe Durham.
The Results -. Lions Mane and Almond mushrooms grown with peroxide. This is what it is all about! Volume II of the manual presents an "add-and-stir" protocol for preparing peroxide-compatible porous substrates such as pellet fuel. Peroxide in Mushroom Growing. Frequently Asked Questions Click the link. Volume I of the peroxide manual describes a simple pellet fuel procedure with a boiling-water pasteurization. You can even do it without heating the substrate. The spawn can then be grown on a bookshelf in your home.
This is one of the fastest methods of making mushroom spawn yet devised. What are the limitations of peroxide use in mushroom growing? What are the different ways a mushroom grower can use peroxide? Can I use peroxide for growing mushrooms on straw or compost? What substrates can I use for mushroom growing with peroxide? What mushrooms can I grow in the presence of peroxide?
How effective is peroxide treatment in mushroom cultivation? How safe is peroxide use in mushroom culture? Can peroxide be used for certified "organic" growing of mushrooms? What equipment do I need to grow mushrooms using the peroxide method? Can the peroxide method be used to grow mushrooms commercially? What are the comparative costs of growing mushrooms with peroxide?
How do I order the peroxide manual? With peroxide. To do this.
Clean newsprint. For mushroom mycelium to grow in the presence of peroxide. Peroxide kills contaminants without encouraging new resistant strains. The heat and pressure used to create such pellets destroys the peroxide-decomposing enzymes.
Peroxide kills mushroom spores. In some circumstances. Enzymes in raw sawdust will destroy peroxide in short order. These materials include straw and similar plant remains. Peroxide can do away with costly filter-patch culture bags for bulk substrate. Because of their enzyme content.